I built a Buchla 218 V1 Touch Activated Voltage Source module for myself to go with my 208 Stored Program .
My two PCBs were pre-coated with clear and pre-soldered together. There was masking tape over the un-stuffed SMT pads and removing the tape stripped the clear coat which has no impact but looks sloppy. I cleaned the frets up by filing the ends flat and removing the red paint. Paint doesn't adhere very well to the nickel plated frets and I think the bright nickel finish looks fine. I glued the frets on with epoxy and made sure it was flush around the bottom edge for 1/2" for mounting. I used masking tape on the top to keep any epoxy from bleeding through.
One of the preset pads and most of the red PCB keys were inoperative as they were soldered without first removing the clear coat. I simply removed the solder, used a knife to clear away the clear coat on the red PCB, and resoldered.
Programming / Calibration
I had a difficult time finding the correct software to use with the ST-Link/V2. Ignore all the documentation that comes with the ST-Link/V2. You need the STM32 ST-LINK utility STSW-LINK004. You may also need the STSW-LINK009 USB drivers for Windows 7, 8, and 10. I used firmware 218-v1.1-2.hex and programming was simple and easy. There isn't a clear indication that programming is complete so I waited until there were no more messages and then selected disconnect and powered down. I calibrated the 218 by trimming the voltage to two octaves when pressing that key pad. The scaling isn't perfect but pretty close.
Operation is pretty straightforward. A DIP switch selects the output scale, first or last note, and the amplitude of the output pulse at either 10V or 13.5V.
The octave switch has three modes. If the switch set to On you can use the Preset Voltage touch pads to jump octaves (0, 1, and 2) on the Key Voltage Out jacks and Slope CV Out jacks. If the switch is set to None then the CV generated from the Preset Voltage Source knobs is only on the Preset Voltage Output jacks. If the switch is set to Preset then the CV generated from the Preset Voltage Source knobs is added to the Key Voltage Out jacks, the Slope CV Output jacks and also to the Preset Voltage Output jacks.
The Portamento control is no glide at CW and maximum glide at CCW like the original. However, the useful range is only on the 1/3 rotation from CCW. You want a log feel to portamento but this is super log. The circuit has a couple of breakpoints designed in the response curve and one uses a zener. The op-amp output is negative and the zener is backwards, and corrected is 6V which seems like too high a voltage. No portamento is when the LED is on so the issue is it doesn't go off soon enough. I played with the circuit but I always had some slew at minimum. It was getting too involved and I didn't feel like redesigning the circuit so the simple solution was to bypass some of the LED current by putting a resistor across it. I found a value between 1K and 1K5 worked best. I ended up series connecting a 1K and 270R which gave me 1.8 seconds maximum and 0.5 seconds at mid position. This circuit is the same on V2.
I built the Buchla black V2 for someone else. This design is similar to V1 but is mostly through-hole construction. The STM32F405 processor is on a separate daughter card and uses different firmware than V1. One main difference with the V2 design is a true two-level Buchla trigger-gate pulse output. V1 has just a single level pulse output.
It is critical that you countersink the hole in the large PCB for a flat head 3mm screw and mount the standoff BEFORE you assemble the two PCBs. The countersunk hole and standoff is indicated by the red arrow on the back of the PCB. The standoff is not in the BOM and is a 15 mm F-F. After you mount the standoff, you align the two PCBs and solder the holes to secure them together. I did apply a little downward pressure to make sure the PCBs were flush but if you heat the bottom pad and apply solder it will wick up to the sides. I soldered all the mounting holes first and then soldered the interconnect holes for the keys.
I installed the frets with hot melt glue. I used my soldering iron at 450°F to level off the hot glue on the lower 1/2" of the PCB so the module will sit flush in a boat.
|The keypads are capacitive and connect directly to CMOS
inputs. You need to insulate from touch these by spraying the front of
the PCBs where the keypads are. You don't have to spray the entire
front but it is easier as there is no good mask line for just doing the
keypad area. You do not have to spray the rear of the PCBs.
I did all the soldering on PCB1 before I clear coated it so heat from soldering would not discolor the clear coat.
I used tac rags to clean my bench and the PCB and and then applied Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating 1303 in one coat. Even so, this acts as a dust magnet and there are a few areas with some minor dust
Unlike V1, V2 is mostly through hole construction on PCB2.
218 V2 PCB2 Reference Diagram
Construction is straightforward. I temporarily installed the daughter card and straight pins into the headers to align them when I soldered the headers on PCB2 and the pins on the processor daughter card.
I used two of the existing resistor holes for the mod. The BOM likewise doesn't list the 10K and 20K resistors needed. On this PCB2 there was no trace between IC9 pins 8 and 9.
This is the finished PCB2. I have not soldered the switch and have only soldered the middle pin of the four potentiometers before assembly. Once assembled, I aligned the switch and potentiometers to the 15mm standoff and PCB to PCB connector height and then soldered them.
Here is the finished module.
Programming / Calibration
Programming V2 is similar to V1. You need the STM32 ST-LINK utility STSW-LINK004 and you may also need the STSW-LINK009 USB drivers for Windows 7, 8, and 10. I used firmware B218-v2.0.hex and programming was simple and easy. There isn't a clear indication that programming is complete so I waited until there were no more messages and then selected disconnect and powered down. I calibrated the 218 by trimming the voltage to two octaves when pressing that key pad.
Operation is pretty straightforward. A DIP switch selects the output scale and first or last note. There is no selection for the output pulse. The legends for the DIP switch are incorrect. I was not able to verify the third DIP switch but was told that the 10V/13.5V selection is for the pressure output.
The output pulse is a combination trigger-gate pulse as seen in this scope waveform. The leading edge trigger pulse is always the same amplitude and width and the gate portion stays at 5V as long as the key is pressed.